Antique mawata (hand woven) Yuki tsumugi silk kimono w/ sayagata
A very special piece, very unusual to find (at least for me), this amazing soft, tactile Yuki tsumugi silk is a delight to feel and wear.
It is in excellent condition and probably dates back to the mid 40-50’s.
It measures 151.5 cm long, is 62 cm from sleeve edge to center of the back, and the sleeve drop is 48 cm.
It is also heavier than the average kimono at 1.3 kg
I cannot stress how artisinal this piece is. The colour is soft, beautiful and has a lovely soft sheen. It feels amazing, soft yet sturdy with a delicate texture. It is ENTIRELY hand made, from spinning thru dyeing to weaving.
A Yuki tsumugi fabric that has been hand spun and woven. The best “Tsumugi” fabrics used for clothing, designated as an “Important Intangible Cultural Property. “The silk fabric which is hand spun from the floss is dyed manually so that splash patterns will come out on the fabric after it is woven. They are hand woven in “Jibata”(a loom with no legs) and the designs are small crosses of splash patterns. Warm, light, tough and free from wrinkles, the fabric does not fade or discolor easily, but increases its luster the more frequently it is washed and stretched. This fabric is of such good quality that it is said that “Yuki Tsumugi” should first be worn as a night wear and then used as a going out wear.
It takes 10 to 15 days to weave a plain fabric and 30 to 45 days to weave a small patterned fabric for a piece of cloth required for an adult garment (36 cm width and 840 cm length).
• Saaya: Also seen as Saayagata and sayagata. Buddhist crosses, (swastika). Sayagata is a pattern of interlocking manji (swastika) (sometimes spelled saayagata). Swastika are also sometimes called manji and mangi
• Tsumugi: A silk textile woven with hand-spun threads from wild silk cocoon fibres. It doesn’t have a glossy or smooth texture, but a tasteful rough texture. Very time consuming to produce, as the silk fibre has to be joined repeatedly, due to the hole in the cocoon where the silk moth exited, so a very expensive silk. (Also see hige-tsumugi)