Antique textural woven sayagata reclaimed omeshi silk fabric
A package of reclaimed antique omeshi silk with a very unusual textural woven sayagata pattern that is almost like Braille, it is so prominent!
This was recovered from an antique Michiyuki, a haori-like garment. The colour is a rich pumpkin orange and the woven pattern really catches the light in interesting ways.
The package consists of the following sized pieces:
- 1 piece @ 11 by 36 cm
- 2 pieces @ 100 by 36 cm
- 1 piece @ 74 by 36 cm
- 2 pieces @ 280 length, just under half is 36 cm wide, and 149 cm of the length is 26 cm wide. There is a U shaped curve where the front neck meets the back.
This fabric really makes you want to feel it!
• Omeshi: A textile woven with strongly twisted pre-dyed silk threads. There are two types of Omeshi, one is Hiraori-Omeshi and the other is Chirimen Omeshi. By 1960, Omeshi Kimonos hold 80% of Kimono market share, but now, produced only in small quantities. Omeshi Kimonos were ranked the highest in pre-dyed silk Kimonos, and were extremely valuable. Its texture is firmer than Chirimen
• Michiyuki: a traditional “kimono coat” is called a michiyuki. It’s meant to be worn when going out in the street, to protect the kimono from getting dirt or wet, and also to make the wearer warmer. Michiyuki can have different lenghts,from short, waist-line ones to others as long as the kimono itself. It is usually plain color, or has discrete, simple patterns – which makes sense, since it’s made to suffer more wear than the kimono underneath it.
Different from haori (another traditional kind of kimono over-garment) michiyuki has a square neckline, and is usually closed by buttons. It’s also mostly made for women – while haori was a male outfit that ended up having female version too after Meiji period (1868-1912). Also different from haori, michiyuki is always worn closed.
Michiyuki are three-quarter length coats with square necklines. The most common materials for michiyuki are crepe fabric, silk and satin. Michiyuki often have no patterns, but can also feature stripes, checks, or other designs that are more subtle than those of most kimonos and related garments.
• Sayagata: the swastika is often found as part of a repeating pattern. One common pattern, called sayagata in Japanese, is made of of interlocking manji/swastikas, left- and right-facing swastikas joined by lines. As the negative space between the lines has a distinctive shape, the sayagata pattern is sometimes called the “key fret” motif in English.