ANTIQUE BOLT FOR KYUSUN OBI WOVEN SAYAGATA
A beautiful full bolt of fabric intended for a kyusun nagoya obi. It is 32.5 cm wide and 5 meters long, is sold as the entire bolt, and is in excellent condition for its age.
The woven sayagata pattern in the silk fabric is nicely tactile, and covers the entire length of the bolt.
This fabric is sturdy and solid but still has a nice drape. It would be great for a lot of projects, but bags cushions and wallets spring to mind..
• Nagoya obi: The most convenient obi today is the nagoya obi. First produced in the city of Nagoya at the end of the Taisho era (1912-26), the Nagoya obi is lighter and simpler than the fukuro or maru obi. The nagoya obi is characterised by a portion of the obi being pre-folded and stitched in half. The narrow part wraps around the waist, while the wider part forms the bow of the obi tie. When worn, a nagoya obi is tied with a single fold, while a maru or a fukuro obi, being longer, is tied with a double fold. Most nagoya obi is less expensive a maru or fukuro obi. Nonetheless, its design can be stunning
Nagoya obi (名古屋帯?), or when differentiating from the fukuro Nagoya obi also called kyūsun Nagoya obi (九寸名古屋帯 , “nine inch nagoya obi”?)) is the most used obi type today. A Nagoya obi is set apart by its distinguishable structure: one end is folded and sewn in half, the other end is of full width. This is to make putting the obi on easier. A Nagoya obi can be partly or fully patterned. It is normally worn only in the taiko musubi style, and many Nagoya obi are designed so that they have patterns only in the part that will be most prominent in the knot. A Nagoya obi is shorter than other obi types, about 315 centimetres (10.33 ft) to 345 centimetres (11.32 ft) long, but of the same width, about 30 centimetres (12 in).
The Nagoya obi is relatively new. It was developed by a seamstress living in Nagoya at the end of the 1920s. The new, easy-to-use obi gained popularity among Tokyo’s geisha, from whom it then was adopted by fashionable city women for their everyday wear.
The formality and fanciness of a Nagoya obi depends on its material, just as with other obi types. Since the Nagoya obi was originally used as everyday wear, it can never be part of a truly ceremonial outfit, but a Nagoya obi made from exquisite brocade can be accepted as semi-ceremonial wear.
•Sayagata: the swastika is often found as part of a repeating pattern. One common pattern, called sayagata in Japanese, is made of of interlocking manji/swastikas, left- and right-facing swastikas joined by lines. As the negative space between the lines has a distinctive shape, the sayagata pattern is sometimes called the “key fret” motif in English.