Antique Taisho meisen haori black & red sayagata
Lovely classic Taisho era haori in meisen silk with a woven sayagata pattern in red on black. The red is a very pretty lustrous colour that has a nice shimmer to it. It has it’s original haori-himo ties and is half lined in white sayagata figured chirimen silk.
It is in excellent condition for the age – Taisho era items are dating from about 1912 – 1926 or so.
It measures 84 cm from top to bottom, 65 cm from the centre of the neck to the sleeve edge, and the sleeve drop is 49 cm.
This would suit a man or a woman equally well.
• Meisen: Meisen silk, generally crisp and supple, is one of the Japanese silks fabricated by weaving pre-dyed threads, utilizing the tie-and-resist ikat technique (ikat is an Indonesian term widely utilized to refer to this technique).
In this process, the threads, silk or cotton, are first stretched on a frame. Selected design areas are tightly bound to prevent the dye from penetrating and the hanks of threads are immersed in the dye pots. The bound portions of the yarns resist the dye and when woven, as a result of the threads not being perfectly aligned, create shapes with charmingly uneven edges.
Other Japanese textiles that are made with variations of this technique are cotton kasuri,omeshisilk and tsumugi silk. (described below).
Meisen silk was a popular fabric for casual kimono from 1910 to 1950, in part because it was more affordable, and in part because the designs, frequently drawing on Western influences, seemed adventurous and innovative. Even today they retain a contemporary sensibility.
• Sayagata: the manji is often found as part of a repeating pattern. One common pattern, called sayagata in Japanese, is made of of interlocking manji, left- and right-facing manji joined by lines. As the negative space between the lines has a distinctive shape, the sayagata pattern is sometimes called the “key fret” motif in English.