Short name: “Space Invaders” kasuri meisen kimono
Material: Meisen Silk
Size: A (neck to hem) = 145 cm , B (neck to sleeve end) = 63 cm , C (sleeve drop) = 67 cm
Pattern/Technique: woven pattern of kasuri
Lovely antique Meisen silk kimono, unlined summer “hitoe” weight, with a bold woven kasuri pattern i have nicknamed a “Space Invaders” style.. excellent condition, size as per image attached, a crisp slubby silk that is tough and yet supple, the pattern is achieved by the threads being dyed before weaving, giving a charming soft edge to the shapes, much loved by kimono fans.. similar technique to Indonesian Ikat dying.
Meisen: Meisen is woven with dyed cocoon using Hiraori technique. It has a taffeta like feel and body. Worn by wide range of classes. Meisen Kimono is a casual cloth for wealthy people but a fine cloth for ordinary people. This type of Kimono often has dynamic art nouveau style patterns. This weave was extremely popular in 1910 to 1950
The meisen kimono remained popular until around the 1950’s. After the war, fashion tastes shifted to more Western style clothing. Also, wool became popular. Sadly, by the 1960’s, the meisen kimono had all but disappeared.
• Kasuri: One of the Kimono patterns. As it is woven with pre-dyed threads, sometimes an undyed part appears. That part is used as motif. These ikat fabrics are made by selectively binding and dyeing parts of the warp or weft threads, or even both, before the fabric is woven. It is an arduous and exacting process. For either silk or cotton fabrics, the threads are stretched on a frame, selected design areas are bound, then the hanks of bound threads are immersed in the dye pots. In meisen silk kats, both warp and weft are bound and dyed. For warp ikats, it’s the warp threads that are bound and dyed. The fabric is woven with plain wefts, as all of the patterning is in the warps. The irregular, feathery design outlines are a characteristic feature, where the dye seeps under the bindings slightly. In contrast, vertical pattern lines are crisp and smooth. For weft kasuri, more juggling is possible. It’s the wefts that are bound selectively and dyed, and the weaver has a little freedom in positioning the dyed pattern areas exactly during the weaving process. This makes quite complex motifs possible. It presumes, however, that the bindings were done with much care and precision. Fabric ornamentation with elaborate weft-ikat motifs is known as “picture kasuri,” or e-gasuri. Sometimes the warps are printed or painted before the final weaving process. The fabric below appears to combine techniques