Antique doro oshima tsumugi silk kimono w/ sayagata 5 maruki
A sumptuous piece of real artisanal beauty, this antique kimono is made in the intensely laborious and very regional Oshima tsumugi method. It involves natural mud dyeing, extremely fine weaving, and a lot of time.
This particular beauty is black with a dotty blue sayagata pattern. It is in excellent condition and measures 154 cm long, is 62 cm from centre seam to sleeve edge, and the sleeve drop is 45 cm.
This is a truly fine example of the type. 5 maruki is a grade of weave fineness, as described below.
In order to be referred to as authentic Ōshima Tsumugi weaving, the fabric must meet the following four conditions.
1. It must be made in Amami Oshima.
2. The color must have been made through the technique called dorosome (dyeing with mud).
3. The threads must be 100% silk.
4. The fabric must be a plain weave.
1. It Must Be Made in Amami Oshima
In order to be called Ōshima Tsumugi weaving, the fabric must have been made in Amami Oshima.
2. The Color Must Have Been Made through Dorosome Dyeing
To begin with, this technique requires the threads themselves to be individually dyed before being woven into textiles with different patterns or illustrations. The threads to be woven into these incredible fabrics are dyed using a technique that has been passed down for generations in Amamiōshima. Dorosome or mud-dyeing, is an all natural fabric dyeing technique that can only be found in Amami Oshima; it is not possible anywhere else in the world.
Using the yeddo hawthorn trees (called te-chi in Amami Oshima), a red dye is first extracted from the wood and the silk threads are saturated in it. When these red threads are mixed with the iron-rich mud,a chemical reaction takes place and turns the silk black.
3. The Threads Must Be 100% Silk
Authentic Ōshima Tsumugi textiles are only made with pure silk, making them both high quality and high class fabrics.
All over the world, there are many different varieties of textiles; some of the most well-known are France’s Gobelins tapestry, Persian carpets and Ōshima Tsumugi textiles. With a history spanning 1300 years, Ōshima Tsumugi textiles are considered to be fabrics of the finest quality on an international scale.
4. The Fabric Must be a Plain Weave
Plain weaving refers to weaving where the vertical and horizontal threads are woven alternatively (one over the other). Though this is a common technique, what sets it apart in Ōshima Tsumugi weaving is the minute nature of the silk threads. This fabric requires a highly skilled technique to make it accurately, but when done so, it is a particularly light and sturdy fabric.
After already undergoing this lengthy process under expert hands, finally the quality of the design or pattern of the Ōshima Tsumugi weaving further adds to the impeccable quality of the overall fabric.
•Maruki: 1,240 of warp yarns represent a Maruki unit. The more it increases, the more the patterns details come out.
The way to count is in units of 80 kasuri yarns, so Maruki is divided by 80.
4.6 pieces of kasuri per 1 cm is called 5 maruki, 5~5.7 pieces is 7 maruki, and 7~7.6 pieces is 9 maruki.